By Maryam Qarehgozlou
Nestled in the foothills of the Zagros Mountains, on the southern bank of the Seymareh River in Ilam, lies the weathered outline of the city.
Known in antiquity as Madaktu, this sprawling ruin was once a thriving urban center, a cultural and economic heart of the region.
Today, beneath its stones, the city still whispers the stories of Elamites, Sassanians, and the early Islamic world.
Seymareh is located southeast of the modern town of Darreh Shahr, framed by the towering peaks of Kabir Kuh.
Archaeologists estimate that the city, at its height, spanned between 142 and 200 hectares, making it the largest archaeological site in Ilam province.
Its location, at the meeting point of mountain passes and river valleys, once gave it both strategic and commercial significance.
From Madaktu to Seymareh
Long before it was known as Seymareh, this city thrived under the name Madaktu, the capital of one of the Elamite provinces.
In the 7th century BCE, the city fell to the Assyrian armies, its walls shattered and streets emptied. But the city’s story did not end there.
Centuries later, during the Sassanian era, it was rebuilt and renamed Seymareh.
The new city reflected the empire’s prosperity: broad streets lined with markets, elegant stuccoed buildings, and advanced urban planning, including water channels and an early sewage system.
The earthquake that ended an era
Seymareh’s fortunes ended abruptly in the mid-10th century CE.
Historical records and geological evidence point to a devastating earthquake in 334 AH (945 CE) that reduced much of the city to rubble.
Achaeological evidence suggests that parts of the population had already begun leaving before the quake struck, perhaps due to economic or political shifts that we may never fully understand.
The city earned the nickname the “hidden Pompeii of Iran”, due to its sudden destruction following the earthquake and remarkable preservation.
Much like the Roman city of Pompeii, which was buried under volcanic ash, Seymareh was devastated by the earthquake and abandoned.
Its ruins, left untouched for centuries beneath layers of soil, have preserved streets, buildings, and artifacts that the city is today known for.
Unearthing the past
Since the early 20th century, Seymareh has drawn the attention of explorers and archaeologists alike.
Figures such as Henry Rawlinson, Jacques de Morgan, and the Holmes Archaeological Mission recorded their impressions of the site, while modern excavations have revealed its hidden treasures.
Nine seasons of systematic excavation have brought to light remnants of one of the earliest mosques in Iran, the remains of a nobleman’s residence, workshops for pottery and glass-making, flood defenses, and striking examples of Sassanian and early Islamic stucco decoration.
Each discovery adds another thread to the city’s complex historical tapestry. Among the most fascinating finds are the city’s industrial installations.
Kilns for pottery and glass production reveal that Seymareh not only served as a political center but also a hub of craftsmanship and trade.
The sophistication of these workshops hints at a city deeply connected to regional and perhaps even international commerce.
Seymareh and world heritage
Seymareh’s significance was recognized early in Iran’s efforts to preserve its heritage. In 1931, it became one of the first archaeological sites to be registered on the National Heritage List.
Today, Iran is working toward having the Seymareh and Kabir Kuh Cultural Landscape inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List, which would bring global attention—and much-needed conservation—to this remarkable site.
For travelers, Seymareh offers a rare experience: to walk through the bones of a city that has been silent for a millennium.
More than 150 registered monuments surround Darreh Shahr, from the Sassanian Gavmishan Bridge to the Chahar Taqi Fire Temple of Sarkhabad.
Nature lovers will find the landscape just as captivating.
In spring, the valleys bloom with fields of Fritillaria imperialis—the iconic crown imperial lily—set against the dramatic cliffs of Kabir Kuh.
Waterfalls like Marbareh and dramatic gorges such as Bahram Chobin complete the picture of a place where history and nature are inseparable.
Seymareh is far more than a ruin. It is a rare glimpse into the urban life of ancient Iran, from the Elamites to the dawn of Islam.
Its vast streets, industrial remains, and religious buildings speak of a society that was dynamic, connected, and sophisticated.
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