Sunday, November 01, 2026

Discover Iran: Mahallat, Iran’s ‘flower capital’ with hot springs, geothermal wonders and thriving travertine industry

Mahallat, Iran’s “Netherlands,” is renowned for ornamental flowers, mineral-rich hot springs, and travertine quarries, combining horticulture, geothermal heritage, wellness tourism, and stone production.

By Ivan Kesic

  • Mahallat produces a remarkable variety of ornamental plants and is widely known as the Netherlands of Iran, with 40 percent of the town's population working as growers, sellers, or in jobs tied to the flower industry.
  • Its hot springs form part of a scientifically significant geothermal system, with a subsurface reservoir estimated at approximately 90°C while the bathing pools range from 32°C to 48°C, drawing visitors for generations to the mineral-rich waters.
  • The same geology that heats the springs also produces travertine, making Mahallat and nearby Nimvar important centers of Iran's building-stone industry.

In the central Iranian province of Markazi, the town of Mahallat is known for its mesmerising landscapes and economic traditions rarely associated with a single destination anywhere else.

Extensive greenhouses and flower farms have earned it the reputation of one of Iran's principal centers for ornamental plants, with some calling it the Netherlands of Iran.

Mineral-rich hot springs attract visitors seeking relaxation and traditional wellness experiences, while a powerful natural spring gives the town one of its best-known recreational spaces.

Beyond the cultivated landscape, quarries and travertine deposits reveal a geological history that has also made Mahallat an important center of Iran's building-stone industry.

These features are interconnected elements of the town's development, where water sustains agriculture, geology supports both mineral-water systems and commercially valuable stone deposits, and local producers have turned these natural advantages into sources of employment, trade and regional recognition.

Place shaped by water

Mahallat lies in Markazi Province, east of Arak and west of Delijan cities, an oasis where one must traverse arid lands to reach the destination.

The first thing that strikes visitors on arrival is rows of tall, ancient trees along each side of the streets, with boulevards designed with flowers.

Water is central to Mahallat's identity. The natural spring known as Sar Cheshmeh, in the northern part of the town, feeds a well-known park and recreational area.

Its flow has historically supported settlement and agriculture, and the spring supplies drinking water as well as water for irrigation of flower gardens.

Visitors can spend hours near the spring enjoying the cool weather under the shadow of the trees.

The park has developed into a managed leisure destination with visitor facilities and food outlets, illustrating how a natural water source can acquire a wider social role and become part of a town's collective identity rather than serving only a practical need.

City of flowers

Mahallat is widely known as the City of Flowers and Plants and is frequently compared with the Netherlands because of its extensive ornamental-plant production.

Professional floriculture dates back 88 years, when a worker named Yahyakhan learned about growing flowers from his Dutch foreman in Tehran and brought the knowledge to his birthplace.

Today, 40 percent of Mahallat's population are growers or sellers of flowers or engaged in jobs indirectly associated with the industry.

The Flower Village in the south of Mahallat and Mahallat's Garden of Flowers are highly recommended to visitors, with more than 300 greenhouses where all types of flowers, even the rarest, are found, such that the scent of flowers is everywhere.

The city also has the country's largest cactus farm, with cactuses of diverse shapes and colors. Mahallat's reputation depends on more than cultivation alone.

Producing flowers for commercial markets requires propagation, irrigation, pest management, harvesting, sorting, packaging and transport, and perishable flowers must reach buyers in suitable condition.

Greenhouse owners, agricultural workers, suppliers, transport operators and wholesalers all contribute to the chain linking local cultivation with consumers elsewhere in Iran.

The greenhouses are productive workplaces and sources of income, while the plants themselves have become a symbol through which Mahallat presents its identity to visitors.

Florists of Mahallat are among the world's most professional, and the gladiolus produced in the city is the world's most durable flower.

Mahallat won an award for producing fresh gladiolus at an international exhibition in Osaka, Japan, where Iran competed with veteran producers from the Netherlands.

The annual flower-and-plant festival, traditionally held for several days in late August, showcases flowers and plants while introducing visitors to the region's horticultural capacity.

Sarcheshmeh Spring Park in Mahallat
Hot springs: Geology, water and wellness

Mahallat's hot springs lie approximately 15 kilometers northeast of the town, near the slopes of Kuh-e Khorzan. The area is known as Ab-e Garm-e Mahallat and contains several mineral-water sources that have attracted visitors for generations.

The springs are as important as the town's flowers, and the temperature reaches 50 degrees centigrade in the spa, which has therapeutic properties due to various minerals found in the water.

The springs are scientifically interesting because they are part of a broader geothermal system.

Geological structures, faults, warm springs and extensive travertine outcrops are important evidence of geothermal activity, and analysis suggests a shallow geothermal reservoir with a temperature of approximately 90°C.

This subsurface estimate is not the temperature of water in the visitor pools, since surface temperatures are substantially lower, with studies reporting ranges from 32°C to 48°C and a mean of approximately 46°C for five springs used by visitors.

Differences in sampling, locations and methods explain why published temperatures are not always identical.

The geological explanation involves groundwater moving through fractured rocks and interacting with heat at depth. Faults and fractures provide pathways through which water circulates, warms and returns to the surface.

The region lacks young volcanic rocks, and radioactive decay in extensive granitic rocks is discussed as a possible heat source. Published research describes the waters as acidic-sulphate types, while other sources report calcium and sulphate components.

For generations, visitors have associated hot-water bathing with relief from muscle tension, stiffness and general discomfort, forming an important part of the region's wellness-tourism tradition.

Traditional use and visitor testimony should be distinguished from clinical evidence, since the presence of minerals does not establish that bathing can cure rheumatic, kidney, liver, skin or other diseases.

People with medical conditions, cardiovascular problems, pregnancy-related concerns or sensitivity to heat should seek medical advice before using very warm pools.

The hot springs are best understood as a combination of geothermal heritage, recreational bathing and traditional wellness culture.

Travertine quarry near Mahallat
Travertine and the stone-mining landscape

The same geological setting that explains Mahallat's hot springs also underpins its building-stone industry. The region is known for travertine, a carbonate rock formed when mineral-rich water deposits calcium carbonate.

As groundwater reaches the surface and changes temperature or loses dissolved carbon dioxide, minerals precipitate and gradually accumulate, and over time these deposits may develop into substantial rock bodies that can be quarried and processed for construction.

Travertine is valued in architecture for its color variations, natural textures and suitability for cutting into slabs and blocks.

Depending on its formation and processing, the stone may display bands, pores and distinctive patterns, characteristics that have made travertine an important material for building facades, flooring and decorative surfaces in Iran and international markets.

Mahallat and nearby Nimvar are significant centers of the stone industry, linking extraction sites with cutting and processing facilities.

One field study examined 29 travertine quarries and 18 stone-cutting and processing units in the region, where modern diamond-wire cutting methods were widely used.

The stone industry contributes to local employment through quarrying, cutting, finishing, transport, machinery maintenance and trade, and trade exhibitions dedicated to stone have provided venues for presenting different varieties and promoting commercial relationships.

However, the economic benefits of quarrying must be considered alongside environmental concerns, since quarrying can change the appearance of hillsides, generate waste rock and dust, and place pressure on surrounding land and water systems.

Local reporting has raised concerns about the potential effects of nearby mining on the flow of the hot springs, while also recording disagreements over how quarrying should be regulated.

Greenhouses in Mahallat
Experiencing Mahallat as a visitor

A visit to Mahallat can combine several experiences rather than concentrating on one attraction.

Sar Cheshmeh is a natural starting point for exploring the town's relationship with water, while the hot-spring area northeast of the town offers a different environment centered on geothermal water and bathing facilities.

Visitors interested in horticulture can explore the town's flower-growing identity, while those drawn to geology may find the stone-working landscape and local exhibitions equally revealing.

The surrounding countryside also provides opportunities to visit historic sites such as Khurheh, and because these attractions are spread across the district, visitors should check distances, road conditions and access rules before traveling, since commercial greenhouses and active quarries are workplaces, not automatically public tourist sites.

Seasonality matters, with the flower festival traditionally taking place in late summer. One-day tours are very helpful in reducing the stress and anxiety that come from living in large cities.

Taking a bath with warm water reduces stress and helps people relax, helps detoxify the body and reduces the risk of infectious diseases, while floating in mineral waters two hours before going to bed leads to a better night's sleep.

Spas help relieve joint pain by reducing pressure on muscles and bones, and those using spas regularly are less likely to develop arthritis; the spa also reduces blood pressure and is recommended to those suffering from hypertension.

Travelers should also be mindful of practical health considerations, since visitors can develop allergies from flowers' pollen during the growing season.

Qalamkari: The centuries-old art of printing stories on fabric in Isfahan

TEHRAN - In the historic Iranian city of Isfahan, where centuries of artistic ingenuity have shaped one of the country's richest cultural landscapes, an age-old craft continues to bring colour, patterns and stories to life on fabric. Known as Qalamkari, this traditional textile art combines hand-carved wooden stamps, carefully prepared dyes and intricate Persian designs to produce decorative fabrics that are both functional and artistic.

Rooted in Iran's long tradition of craftsmanship, Qalamkari became particularly prominent in Isfahan, especially during the Qajar era, when its printed textiles developed into some of the city's best-known artistic products. Beyond their decorative appeal, some of these fabrics served as visual narratives, portraying episodes from Persian epics, historical events and religious traditions.

Isfahan, nicknamed Nesf-e Jahan, meaning "Half the World", was the capital of Persia during the Safavid era and a major crossroads of international trade, diplomacy and artistic exchange. Under the Safavid monarch Shah Abbas I, the city experienced a remarkable cultural and architectural flourishing, helping establish its reputation as one of the most important centers of Persian art and craftsmanship. Today, it remains one of Iran's leading tourist destinations and a prominent hub of traditional handicrafts.

An art shaped by wood, color and fabric

Qalamkari, also known as Kalamkari in some transliterations, is a traditional method of decorating textiles through printing with hand-carved wooden blocks. Artisans use these stamps to transfer elaborate patterns onto fabric, often combining several colors and motifs to create richly detailed compositions.

The designs draw inspiration from a broad range of Iranian artistic traditions, including Persian carpets, architectural ornamentation and the elaborate tilework of historic mosques. Floral and botanical patterns, animals, arabesques, geometric arrangements, hunting scenes and Persian calligraphy are among the recurring motifs.

Flowers, cypress trees and other elements of nature feature prominently, often evoking the visual richness of traditional Persian gardens. The resulting compositions reflect a distinctive aesthetic in which symmetry, repetition and a harmonious combination of colors play central roles.

Cotton is among the most widely used materials for Qalamkari because of its ability to absorb dyes. Silk, canvas and fustian have also been used, depending on the intended purpose and desired finish.

The traditional production process requires considerable precision. First, an artisan prepares the design and selects the appropriate wooden stamps, each carved with a particular section of the intended pattern. The raised surfaces of the blocks are coated with dye and pressed onto the fabric to transfer the design.

Qalamkari: The centuries-old art of printing stories on fabric in Isfahan

Producing multicolored patterns requires several stamps, each corresponding to a different color or part of the composition. Their placement must be carefully coordinated so that the separate elements align correctly. Even a slight misalignment can disrupt the overall design.

The craft therefore involves much more than simply pressing a wooden block onto cloth. Knowledge of dyes, fabric preparation, pressure, spacing and the precise registration of patterns is essential. In some examples, hand painting is also combined with block printing to achieve more elaborate effects.

A craft with a long history

The precise origins of Qalamkari in Iran remain uncertain, and no definitive historical reference establishes when the craft first emerged. However, according to the renowned art historian Arthur Upham Pope, the art was already practiced in Iran during the Ghaznavid period.

It subsequently developed through different historical periods, reaching particular prominence under the Safavids. The reign of Shah Abbas I was especially significant for Isfahan's artistic and commercial development, as the city became an important center for the production and exchange of Persian handicrafts.

Although Qalamkari flourished under the Safavids, it was during the Qajar period that Isfahan's printed textiles became especially well known. Their popularity extended beyond decorative applications, with different fabrics serving as garments, tablecloths, curtains and large wall hangings.

Some pieces featured repeating floral and geometric patterns, while others incorporated elaborate figurative compositions. In the latter, the fabric became a surface for storytelling, bringing together characters, landscapes and historical or religious episodes.

When fabric became a storytelling medium

One particularly interesting aspect of Iranian Qalamkari is its ability to communicate narratives through images.

A number of historical examples preserved in international museum collections demonstrate that these textiles were not always intended merely as household decorations. Some depicted scenes from Persian heroic literature, while others illustrated religious beliefs and historical events.

The Weltmuseum Wien (Vienna's World Museum), for instance, houses several examples of Iranian printed and painted textiles attributed to Isfahan and dating from the 19th century.

One of them is a cotton wall hanging from the mid-19th century, during the Qajar period, measuring 176 centimeters in height and 116 centimeters in width. Originally part of the collection of Austria's Museum of Trade, the piece features a variety of traditional Iranian motifs, including scenes inspired by Persian epic stories, floral compositions, cypress trees emerging from vases and animal figures.

Another notable example, titled The Day of Judgment, is a late-19th-century cotton wall hanging attributed to Isfahan. Combining printing and hand painting, it depicts scenes associated with the Day of Resurrection from a Shiite religious perspective, including references to the Battle of Karbala and the fate of its martyrs and opponents.

The museum also preserves another late-Qajar textile, catalogued as a pictorial Qalamkari, which incorporates verses attributed to the Persian poet Omar Khayyam. Its message reflects on the passage of time and the importance of appreciating life's fleeting moments.

Together, these works illustrate the remarkable range of subjects that Iranian textile artisans could accommodate within a single piece of fabric. They also demonstrate how Qalamkari could preserve aspects of Persian literary, historical and religious culture through visual storytelling.

Challenges, decline and revival

Qalamkari: The centuries-old art of printing stories on fabric in Isfahan

Like many traditional Iranian crafts, Qalamkari experienced significant challenges as economic conditions and international markets changed.

During the 19th century, the arrival of cheaper and, in some cases, higher-quality textiles from Britain and Russia made competition increasingly difficult for Isfahan's producers. According to Encyclopaedia Iranica, the quality and price of locally produced Qalamkari fabrics were not always competitive with imported alternatives.

To maintain production, some manufacturers began importing unfinished white textiles and printing their designs in Iran before selling the finished products. Although this helped sustain the industry for a time, it could not fully address its underlying difficulties.

Keeping a living heritage alive

Today, Qalamkari continues to be produced in Isfahan, where generations of artisans have worked to preserve the techniques and knowledge associated with the craft.

Its products include tablecloths, curtains, decorative wall hangings and other household textiles. While traditional floral, geometric and figurative designs remain popular, contemporary producers have also adapted their products to changing tastes and practical uses.

In 2023, Isfahan's Qalamkari received international recognition from the World Crafts Council, reflecting the craft's cultural significance and the city's continuing contribution to traditional textile production.

Isfahan is widely regarded as one of the crown jewels of Iran's handicraft industry, with artisans working to safeguard skills passed down from one generation to the next. Qalamkari represents an important part of this heritage, bringing together textile production, wood carving, color-making and visual design in a single artistic tradition.

For visitors to Isfahan, discovering Qalamkari offers an opportunity to look beyond the city's celebrated mosques, palaces, bridges and historic squares and explore another dimension of its cultural identity.

ICOMOS continues evaluation of Masuleh’s UNESCO World Heritage nomination

TEHRAN - The evaluation of Masuleh and its cultural landscape for inscription on UNESCO’s World Heritage List is continuing, with an international expert from the International Council on Monuments and Sites (ICOMOS) conducting field assessments and attending specialist meetings on the Iranian town’s architectural, archaeological, ecological and socio-economic heritage.

The ongoing assessment in Gilan province, northern Iran, examines different aspects of Masuleh and its surrounding landscape, including its physical fabric, ecological characteristics, local livelihoods, social structures and management practices, according to the Ministry of Cultural Heritage, Tourism and Handicrafts.

The program includes field inspections and discussions with university professors, researchers and heritage specialists, focusing on safeguarding the town’s Outstanding Universal Value (OUV) while ensuring its long-term conservation and sustainable development.

As part of the assessment, the ICOMOS expert visited the archaeology and anthropology museum of Rasht, where historical collections from across Gilan province, including archaeological discoveries from Old Masuleh, were presented.

Among the notable objects displayed were the Rashi silver-gilt goblet and the Toleh gold goblet from Talesh. The artefacts offer evidence of the region’s ancient history and sophisticated metalworking traditions.

Specialist sessions also examined archaeological excavations and experimental archaeology, particularly research into historical iron-production technologies. Researchers presented findings from a project involving the reconstruction and experimental operation of ancient iron smelting furnaces, shedding light on Masuleh’s industrial history.

Last year, an interdisciplinary research team successfully reconstructed a medieval iron smelting and casting complex at the Old Masuleh archaeological site, demonstrating the technological capabilities of communities that once inhabited the area.

Led by Farzad Asadi, a faculty member at Islamic Azad University, the project involved the experimental reconstruction of a four-stage furnace system documented through approximately two decades of archaeological research.

The experiment went beyond reconstructing the physical structure. Researchers examined its operational characteristics, including airflow, thermal efficiency and the production process from sponge iron to cast iron.

The reconstructed complex featured preheated air channels, permanent stone structures and a dedicated casting installation, distinguishing it from simpler, temporary bloomery furnaces. Laboratory analysis of the resulting slag and iron also indicated high material purity and considerable control over the production process.

Mostafa Pourali, director of the Masuleh World Heritage nomination dossier, has said the second, more detailed reconstruction phase had revealed technological connections with broader Iranian-type furnaces.

The findings point to Old Masuleh's potential role as a permanent iron-production centre and a place of technological exchange along historical trade routes connecting Iran with the Caucasus and Central Asia. The research is expected to be published internationally.

Beyond its archaeological significance, the furnace reconstruction has added an industrial dimension to the understanding of Masuleh's cultural landscape, demonstrating that the settlement's historical importance extends beyond its distinctive architecture and natural setting.

Other discussions during the ICOMOS assessment addressed sustainable destination management and community-based conservation. Participants examined approaches to managing the historic settlement through the active involvement of residents, while protecting its stepped residential fabric and maintaining the relationship between people, the mountainous environment and traditional livelihoods.

Ecological research and archaeobotanical studies also featured in the program. These interdisciplinary investigations aim to improve scientific documentation of the area's historical environmental conditions and the relationship between past communities and their natural surroundings.

The sessions further addressed the physical conservation of Masuleh, including construction regulations, the use of traditional building materials, appropriate restoration techniques and the management of changes in a vulnerable mountain settlement.

According to Iran's nomination dossier, Masuleh is believed to be between 800 and 1,000 years old. Its numerous cemeteries, both within and outside the settlement, are among the archaeological indications of its historical depth.

The town is particularly distinguished by its multi-storey, terraced urban layout, which follows the slope of the surrounding mountain. Its architecture is closely integrated with the natural landscape, while the arrangement of buildings allows the roofs of lower houses to function as pedestrian spaces and courtyards for those above.

The traditional architectural arrangement also reflects the importance of craftsmanship and the visual character of the settlement. With the main facades of houses directly visible to residents and visitors, local builders and artisans paid particular attention to their appearance and architectural details.

The nomination dossier describes the combination of traditional architecture and natural scenery as a potential basis for tourism development, while recognizing tourism and the preservation of local livelihoods as closely interconnected.

The latest round of assessments highlights the need to approach Masuleh as an integrated cultural landscape rather than merely an architectural attraction. Its historic buildings, traditional industries, archaeological remains, ecological setting and living community collectively contribute to its heritage significance.

The continuing ICOMOS evaluation is an important stage in the international assessment of Iran's nomination. ICOMOS serves as an advisory body to UNESCO on cultural heritage nominations, conducting expert evaluations before the World Heritage Committee considers whether a property should be inscribed on the World Heritage List.

Jordan’s Miscalculation: Bombing Syria, Ignoring Palestine

Crescent International

The western-backed Jordanian regime’s airstrikes inside southern Syria on October 26 were not simply a security operation.

They exposed the political bankruptcy and strategic short-sightedness of the British-installed regime governed by a Second Lieutenant of the British army, Abdullah II ibn al-Hussein.

It manifested the regime’s complete detachment from the realities of the region and the people it governs.

The immediate chronology is revealing.

On October 23, an attack during a funeral at a Greek Orthodox church in Jordan’s Karak governorate killed nine people.

The Abdullah regime subsequently arrested three suspects.

On the evening of October 26, the Jordanian regime struck several locations in Syria’s Daraa and Suwayda provinces.

Amman said the operation targeted Daesh militants linked to the attack and claimed around 20 militants were killed.

The Israeli installed proxies in Damascus, however, reported seven civilian deaths, including women and children.

The takfiri-led Syrian regime said the strikes had taken place without prior coordination, summoned Jordan’s ambassador and delivered a formal protest.

The two regimes later agreed to establish a joint security committee to examine the incident and its consequences.

The regime in Amman may present this as an exercise in defending national security.

In the post-2023 regional environment, however, the political consequences of such actions cannot be separated from the ongoing genocide in Palestine.

A ruler who uses military force against another Muslim country but refuses to lift even a finger to stop the slaughter of Palestinians, only deepens the legitimacy crisis confronting his regime.

The question is not whether Jordan has legitimate security concerns.

The real issue is why its response takes the form of unilateral military action inside a neighbouring Muslim country, with civilians paying the price.

This is the behaviour of a feudal clan, not that of a political system capable of understanding or responding to regional realities.

Such a system subordinates state interests entirely to regime’s survivability.

The Jordanian regime has once again demonstrated that its calculations are shaped more by its external allegiances than by the sentiments and concerns of the people it governs.

The strikes also reveal the long-term consequences of the proxy war imposed on Syria.

Fifteen or 25 years ago, it would have been difficult to imagine Jordan bombing Syrian territory and Damascus refraining from a military response.

Syria’s capacity and strategic posture have been greatly weakened by years of externally sponsored war and internal devastation.

Consider February 10, 2018: Even while fighting that war, Syrian air defences shot down an Israeli F-16 during an Israeli raid.

Jordan, by contrast, has never shown comparable willingness to confront Israel.

The episode should therefore be understood as more than a border incident.

It exposes the asymmetry of a regional order in which regimes backed by Washington and its surrogates can direct force against neighbouring Muslim countries while remaining subservient to apartheid Israel.

It also extinguishes any remaining hope that these foreign-imposed regimes can meaningfully reform themselves.

By choosing confrontation over political legitimacy and regional solidarity, Jordan’s rulers are setting themselves on a collision course with the people of the region.

Their action reflects a profound detachment from the region’s realities and concerns of the wider Muslim Ummah.

In the emerging multipolar world order, where western powers are experiencing a significant decline, it is quite reckless for the Jordanian regime to remain so thoroughly aligned with western geopolitical interests while adopting a confrontational posture towards its Muslim neighbours.

A regime whose survival depends so heavily on external patrons is particularly vulnerable in this changing security environment.

Its western masters are becoming increasingly incapable of protecting their own regional military bases or safeguarding their vassals in West Asia with the same degree of impunity they enjoyed 15 or 20 years ago.

JordanSyria

Vote for UAE candidate for UN chief will endorse genocide

TEHRAN - A vote for Lana Nusseibeh, the UAE's candidate for the post of UN secretary general, will mark an endorsement of genocide, mass atrocities and war, a former UN Security Council says.

Dino Mahtani, writing an article in Middle East Eye published on Oct. 29, says “evidence of the UAE's support for genocidal forces” by RSF militia in Sudan has piled up for years, yet Abu Dhabi denies it all while “cultivating a polished international reputation.”

Rights groups also say Nusseibeh has spent the last three years denying her country's role in the genocide in Sudan, deeming her “too dangerous” to the international order.

"We cannot afford to have the UN led by somebody who is a genocide denier, and indeed somebody who heads a government that has been aiding and abetting genocide, that is basically criminally complicit in that genocide, and she's a lead person in covering that up," Kenneth Roth, the former executive director of Human Rights Watch, said on a joint virtual panel on Oct. 27 that called for Nusseibeh's disqualification.

Mahtani, also a former acting director of the Africa program at the International Crisis Group, writes that Anthropic established in September with "high confidence" that the UAE was behind an influence operation “targeting UN experts and critics of its role in Sudan.”

The following is the text of his article titled “The UAE Deals in the Darkest of Politics - its representative should be nowhere near the UN”:

A bid by the United Arab Emirates to install one of its top diplomats as secretary general of the United Nations, even as the country stands accused of supporting a genocidal paramilitary force in Sudan, has polarized opinion and left many wondering about the future of the world body’s moral authority.

The bid of Lana Nusseibeh, who is a switched-on, worldly diplomat, was pushed by UAE President Mohamed bin Zayed, autocrat and sponsor of warlords, paramilitaries and mercenaries across the Middle East and Africa, and reflects the rapacious politics of our times.

Evidence of the UAE's support for genocidal forces in Sudan has piled up for years including in the form of UN investigations, yet the Persian Gulf Arab state denies it all while cultivating a polished international reputation.

In September, Anthropic established with "high confidence" that the UAE was behind an influence operation targeting UN experts and critics of its role in Sudan. Given the killings and disinformation and her role in denying them, placing Nusseibeh at the head of a world body already struggling to stay relevant and stem a deluge of wars would all but seal the coffin on its moral authority.

Until October, the race to succeed Antonio Guterres was dominated by centrist or left-leaning Latin American candidates. But US President Donald Trump, who has called the UN prone to "a far-left agenda of globalist bureaucrats", rejected them all.

That opened the door for Bin Zayed, whom Trump calls a "warrior", to advance Nusseibeh’s bid. The monarch has committed $1.4 trillion of investment to the US, including in artificial intelligence. Bin Zayed is in contact with Trump on containing Iran, and is the Middle East's staunchest ally of Israeli Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu, whose separate genocide has decimated Gaza, where the UAE is helping Israel's redevelopment plans.

Of Palestinian descent herself and with an academic history in Israeli studies, she has secured the backing of her nomination by the Palestinian Authority, which is partially dependent on Israel for its revenues.

Denials and disinformation

Nusseibeh says that as the UN's first female leader she will act "with the interests of the United Nations only in view".

Many are skeptical.

The women-led Centre for International Policy, a US think tank, says her career will continue to owe itself to an "authoritarian regime that serves as a haven for global kleptocracy and corruption".

As UAE ambassador to the UN, then minister and foreign-policy envoy, Nusseibeh has led her government's categorical denials of UN and media reports that it supported Sudan's paramilitary Rapid Support Forces, whom even the Trump administration has confirmed as committing genocide. The denials persist as UN investigators keep reporting the UAE's role to the Security Council.

Questioned at the UN this week about whether she would continue to reject the findings of UN investigations on the UAE’s support to the Rapid Support Forces, she sidestepped the question saying the allegations were something for the UAE to answer directly, as she has now taken a leave of absence from her ministry to focus on her candidacy.

Instead, she insisted, vaguely, that resolving Sudan’s conflict would be a "litmus test" for the success and credibility of any UN secretary general.

As a Security Council investigator, I saw first-hand how the UAE mission to the UN under Nusseibeh’s ambassadorship behaved when faced with overwhelming evidence of UAE complicity in sanctions-busting.

During 2013 and 2014, just after she took up her post, I documented over 160 shipments of charcoal shipped from Somalia to the UAE, in violation of a UN resolution linking the trade to the financing networks of the Al-Qaeda affiliated group al-Shabab.

During meetings with her team, I was always struck by how her office routinely dismissed the evidence at hand. My investigations culminated in the identification of a site in the UAE desert where I was able to find and photograph multiple warehouses stuffed with Somali charcoal, in flagrant violation of international law.

In 2022, long after I had left the UN but when Nusseibeh was still ambassador, I passed through the UAE in transit only to be detained on arrival, questioned for several hours and then expelled.

My own investigations, including enquiries made via a UAE-based lawyer, established that my detention was connected to the work I had previously done in the UAE and was provoked by renewed UN investigations on Somali charcoal. However, Nusseibeh’s office flatly denied her government’s involvement.

Regional supremacy

Back to today, the UAE is still not shy of intimidation tactics.

A UN report drafted this year and detailing the UAE's deployment of Colombian mercenaries in support of the RSF as they committed atrocities during last year's siege of the Darfuri city of El Fasher has been blocked for months, after the UAE's ally Bahrain, a non-permanent council member, requested a stay in proceedings.

In August, the UAE's UN ambassador demanded UN investigators to "immediately remedy the serious defects" in the report.

Controlling the Sudan narrative is vital to how the UAE shapes perceptions of its role in wars across the Red Sea region. It has backed a warlord controlling eastern Libya, supported pro-Israel secessionists in Yemen, and armed an Ethiopian regime now fighting several factions, including one in northern Tigray, where hundreds of thousands have been killed or starved since 2020.

These conflicts run parallel to the UAE's multi-billion-dollar port developments on the Red Sea's vital waterways, such as Berbera in the breakaway region of Somaliland, now recognized as independent by Israel.

The projects are partly designed to encircle and outflank Saudi Arabia, with which the UAE is locked in a contest for regional supremacy. They also cement its role as an indispensable hub of global capitalism; by some estimates its trading systems touch a third of humanity.

The cost of influence

The UAE has used its vast wealth to buy influence with the permanent Security Council members who could have vetoed Nusseibeh. It has committed billions of pounds to the UK, whose government now tiptoes around the UAE's role in Sudan and in the Manchester City football club scandal.

It has pledged billions of euros to France, while hosting a French military base and a branch of the Louvre in Abu Dhabi.

China's reticence about a candidate so heavily backed by Trump and so close to Israel may be tempered by Beijing's view of the UAE as its most important Middle Eastern strategic partner.

Some 60 percent of Chinese trade is re-exported through UAE ports to more than 400 cities. Beijing is still committed to a Latin American candidate, but may yet be swayed.

The UAE has also tightened ties with Russia, taking large volumes of Russian oil and refined products via intermediaries since Western sanctions were applied on Moscow.

Bin Zayed also recently mediated Trump's diesel supply deal with Putin, a trade Trump needs to lower fuel prices and soothe voters before US mid-term elections.

With all five Security Council permanent members so tied to and dependent on the UAE, it will be no surprise if they eventually wave Nusseibeh through. Her ascension may thus smooth the superpowers' collusive politics. But don't expect her to act in the interest of the victims of wars, mass atrocities and genocides.